Sunrises and sunsets behave very differently from other types of landscape subjects, as you are including a very bright element in the scene, and this also effects everything else around it.
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The first thing to mention is that pointing your camera directly at the sun can damage the sensor, but this is more of an issue in the middle of the day, and less of an issue at sunrise and sunset - where the sun is diffused by the earth's atmosphere, and often also by cloud or mist. So just bear this in mind, but don't worry too much.
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Avoiding 'burned out' highlights
The key to a successful sunrise or sunset image is to avoid having a ragged white blob in the middle of your scene, as is often the case when shooting a sunset with a phone for example.
The sun is extremely bright and so it may well go completely white in your image. This is fine though as long as you can see a clearly-defined circle, as in the example image below - but it can be very hard to achieve.
In fact it is only usually possible when the sun is sufficiently low to be diffused by the earth's atmosphere, or by mist - at which time you may even be able to capture yellows and oranges in it as well. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​
If the clearly-defined circle outline of the sun starts to distort and not show a clean shape, then the shot becomes instantly less appealing and does not work as well. So the most successful sunset images are usually created when there is a small amount of cloud around, as this can also diffuse the brightness of the sun and lead to a more pleasing image.
In effect you don't actually see the sun itself at all in the scene, but you do get the lovely colours reflecting off the clouds and this is what a sunset or sunrise is really all about.
​​In these situations you can also look for sun 'rays' which come out from the cloud that covers the sun in a radial pattern. They can be very dramatic and can really make a sunset or sunrise image work especially well.​​​​​​​​
Under exposing to enhance colour
As outlined in the app itself, for shots like this you very often need to under-expose, vs the settings that the camera's light meter will recommend.
This is because the light meter looks at the whole scene and will take the foreground into account as well, especially if the sky is only taking up the top third of the image.​
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What then happens, the sky loses much of its dramatic colour, so use your exposure compensation to intentionally under-expose the shot, and then this will ensure that you capture the intensity of colour that you can see with your eyes.
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It's worth mentioning here that under-exposing to bring out sky detail and colour will result in the foreground of the scene going much darker also, and losing detail in the shadow areas.
If this happens there are two main alternatives. One is to accept this as part of the image and go for a 'silhouette' effect - which works well when you have foreground elements that are interesting shapes.
The other alternative is to lighten the shadow areas afterwards using editing software, and this is very easy to do - with many free and paid packages being available. Whichever one you use, just look for a slider called 'Shadows' and move that to the right to bring up detail in the darker areas of the scene - but don't overdo it, or it will look unnatural.
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One last thing to mention - to bring out the orangey tones in a sunrise or sunset, you can also change your white balance setting to Cloudy or Shady - both of which are both warmer options, to differing degrees, than the default 'Auto White Balance' or the Sunny setting.
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